8/23/2023 0 Comments Fisher anvil weight markingssand smooth and you will never know where it was. Since it is narrow and everything else around it is rock solid, you can simply fill the cut with your MIG or stick welder. Dad paid 250 for his, and I have paid right around 1 a pound for all of mine. Also search Fisher in the anvil forum, you will get a bunch of posts. Njanvilman runs the Fisher-Norris museum, and can give you some history on this brand. Certain to get the OCD visitor into a cold sweatĪt risk of getting stoned, once you have your radius done, that cut will still be visible but much more shallow. I have my Dads 260 Fisher, and it is a great anvil. it somehow conveys the concept that a perfectly straight crisp 90 degree edge is a requirement.īy the way I like the off centre bolting down provision of that Fisher. I sincerely don't know why manufacturers don't supply anvils with a small radius. It is crisp edges from factory that cause most chips, well that and carelessness. Radius is personal preference, but certainly necessary. And have a smaller even radius on the other side. Any thoughts on that plan?ĭepending on what you do on it, may be worth having a radius that starts as it is now and goes down gradually to nothing at the other end. The left side is in much better condition, so I may sand a 3/32" or so radius on it. It would clean up nearly everything but the cut mark. I think the numbers on mine are 1 3 (and one more number, but unclear). This calculator does not have a place for tonnes. I had considered continuing that radius the entire length of the right side. My OT archive says that a 150-pound anvil should have 1 1 10 to indicate the weight, being 1 hundredweight of 112 lbs, 1 quarter hundredweight of 28 lbs, plus 10 for the final 10 lbs. 2240 pounds (20 CWT) and over is a 'long tonne'. Congratulations and it should serve you well.The guy I bought it from dressed that corner. Founded in 1843 by its inventor Mark Fisher Eagle made its anvils out of. The middle position equals quarters (1/4) of a hundred weight. Rules: Any position can be zero, and IF zero is marked with a zero character (0). Enter digits from your anvil or other object. So I would say that they don't take as kindly to misuse as some of the other anvils, and aren't the absolute "Best" anvil out there, but they are still quite good. The weight markings 1 0 18 are in English Hundredweights. Commonly used to mark anvil weights before the adoption of the metric system in Great Britain. Regardless, it looks in decent shape, and if the price is right Id jump on it. My anvil is one of those examples, not treated too kindly by a previous owner somewhere along the line. The weight mark should be on the other foot, and should only be two digits. I have noticed however, that under abuse (lots of cold working, etc), they do tend to run into some issues like edge chipping, some face delamination, and such. If they are taken care of and not abused, they will perform great. They don't really ring (can be beneficial in some cases), but have good rebound. Most anvils with cast iron bodies aren't that great (Vulcan for example, or the modern "Chineese ASO"), however Fisher Norris are pretty good anvils. Other info I can tell you is that the body is cast iron, with a steel face that has been thermite welded on. The 7 on the foot will designate the weight, Fisher Norris being American, means you multiply this by ten, so 70 lbs. If you are not sure and you really need to know then weigh it. Cast markings are easy to identify as they are usualy raised figures rather than stamped into the anvil. Finally stumbled upon a picture of an anvil with Fisher Norris markings present that looked almost identical to mine (yours has most of the same shape/style/features as mine). A few are marked in kilograms and some cast anvils are marked in pounds rounded to the nearest 10 pounds (250 25). Mine is absent of all markings besides the weight marking, and it took me awhile to find out what it was. I don't have a "history" of the Fisher Norris anvils, but I own one.
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